Graceland is a crazy operation--they have 700,000 visitors per year and they move you through in a highly organized fashion (but never faster than you want to go). I guess we both went into the adventure, at least to some degree, for the kitsch . . . but it was actually a pretty incredible experience. They did a wonderful job of giving you a sense of Elvis as a person (friend, son, husband, etc.) and as an artist (did you know he produced all his own records?). By the time we got to his grave site at the end of the tour, it was genuinely moving to be standing there.